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Lash Mastery Online
Hello my name is Leah Lynch, I have been a safety advocate for the lash industry, a national and international award-winning artist, master trainer, speaker, judge and a working lash artist for the past 17 years. I have been the proud owner of a successful lash Lounge of 15 staff members for 7 years and have certified hundreds of students and trainers throughout my career with my curriculums.
Comments:
NOTE: it may be helpful to read our article on lash mites and Blephritis before reading this particular article.
With all the recent information circulating about eyelash cleansers we thought it would be nice to provide a comparison of the top 3 choices for reducing bacteria on the eyelids and maintaining eye lid hygiene in between services. Diluted Baby Shampoo, SteriLid Foam and Chrissanthie Lid Cleanser.
Generally speaking, our clients are instructed to use a cleanser at home to cleanse there lashes. Depending on what type of adhesive you’re using (rubberized or non rubberized) you may be suggesting an oil or non oily cleanser or products that do not contain glycol. Cleansing is important, obviously, for those who still would like to where liner, shadow and the occasional mascara but cleansing is also important for those who where no makeup at all. Excess natural oils will be forced to build up at the base of the lashes as they are unable to travel down the natural lashes as they would normally due to the extension being in place. (link to approved/suggested makeup products)
The reason eyelash hygiene and removal of these oils and makeup is something that is very important for us to stress to our clients is to help them avoid conditions like overpopulation of lash mites and Blepharitis that can sometimes be cause by poor lid hygiene. (link to other article) Some clients who experience rosacea around the eyes caused by lash mites may also benefit from these special hygiene products.
NOTE: Clients who are suffering from blepharitis do not necessarily have to discontinue their eyelash extensions. Quite a bit of the population will experience some symptoms of Blepharitis at some point during their life, especially those who are over 70 years old. It is important, however, to have these clients use some form of lid scrub or cleaner to try to eradicate the mites, heal the irritated lid skin, improve the over all appearance of the eye, improve lash health and alleviate irritating symptoms. (Link to mite bleph blog again)
Below is a comparison of the pros and cons of the top 3 most recommended choices for lid cleansing.
Baby shampoo diluted with distilled water and dispensed in a foam pump container
Link to baby shampoo/Distilled water/pump containers
Ingredients:
Water, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, PEG-150 Distearate, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin,Citric Acid, Fragrance, Sodium Benzoate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-10, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Acrylates Copolymer, Yellow 6, Yellow 10
Uses:
- This product can be used as a preparatory step before applying eyelash extensions. (link to cleansing steps)
- It can also be a precautionary steps that could take place directly after applying the eyelash extensions to fully cure and remove any fume residue for sensitive clients who react. (link to curing lashes)
- This product can be given to clients as a gift with their full set and used as a daily wash.
NOTE: To avoid legality’s, it is not recommended to mix this product yourself and sell it to clients, you can gift it and incorporate the price into your set/fill price. Another idea is to purchase pump foam bottles inexpensively (link) and then you can make up a card (print your self biz cards) with instructions on how to mix (instructions) with in it and sell the empty bottle!
Application:
Mix 4:1 ratio Distilled water/Baby shampoo – try adding a touch of baking powder as a neutralizer to reduce cyanoacralayte fume irritation.
HOME use:
- Dispense foam into open palm of a clean hand
- Use a clean eye shadow brush to scoop up a bit of the foam and apply it directly to the lashes.
- Use the brush to cleanse through the lashes allowing the bristles to sink down in between each lash and whisk away oil and makeup from between the lashes and on the skin.
- Rinse with water at the sink if using at home. (link to brush)
Salon:
- Dispense foam into open palm of a clean and sanitized hand
- use a pre sanitized eye shadow brush to scoop up a bit of the foam and apply it directly to the lashes.
- Use the brush to cleanse through the lashes allowing the bristles to sink down in between each lash and whisk away oil and makeup from between the lashes and on the skin. Use a downward stroke and flick out for best results at this angle. You may also choose to use doe’s feet (link) to cleanse. In this case apply foam to lashes and with one bud below and one on top stroke up the lash from base to tip to cleanse.
- Use foam to cleanse all the way to the brow to take away any oils that may migrate downward
- Wipe under the eye to the cheek bone to remove any residue from eye creams or lotion that may effect your pad placement.
- Rinse by wetting a cotton bud with saline solution, tilt the clients head to the side and hold a tissue near the outer corner of the eye. Position the cotton bud near the inner corner, up away from the lashes to not snag the fibers, and squeeze a few drops of saline solution on the lashes to rinse. You may also purchase a small squeeze bottle or bottle with dropper (link) and fill with distilled water or saline to rinse (link saleen)
- Take a dry tissue and pat to remove excess moisture.
- Dispense foam into open palm of a clean and sanitized hand
- Use a pre sanitized eye shadow brush to scoop up a bit of the foam and apply it directly to the lashes.
- Use the brush to cleanse through the lashes allowing the bristles to sink down in between each lash and whisk away oil and makeup from between the lashes and on the skin. Use a downward stroke and flick out for best results at this angle. You may also choose to use does feet (link) to cleanse. In this case apply foam to lashes and with one bud below and one on top stroke up the lash from base to tip to cleanse.
- Use foam to cleanse all the way to the brow to take away any oils that may migrate downward
- Wipe under the eye to the cheek bone to remove any residue from eye creams or lotion that may effect your pad placement.
- Rinse by wetting an aesthetic wipe (link) with saline solution, tilt the clients head to the side and hold a tissue near the outer corner of the eye. Starting from the inner corner, begin to wipe the residue from the lashes while squeezing the excess liquid form the pad. You may also purchase a small bottle with a dropper (link) and fill with distilled water or saline to rinse (link saline) **Remember to rinse well especially the underside of the lashes near the open eye before the client opens so as not to irritate their eyes.
- Take a dry tissue and pat to remove excess moisture.
Pro’s:
- There is very little risk of this product causing eye irritation when used as a prep step directly before applying extensions and there for no risk of affecting your work with teary or stinging eyes.
- The light foam is easy to apply to the lashes and remove without fully saturating the eye making it good for easy quick cleanups.
- The gentile formula is suggested by ophthalmologists for good eye hygiene and cleansing and is approved to be used near the eyes with the intent of possibly entering the eye. It is also shown to help alleviate symptoms of Blepharitis. (American optometric association)
- Many very inexpensive and natural options exist for this product, once diluted and dispensed with the foam pump one bottle could last forever! (Links)
Con’s:
PEG is one of the main ingredients and is also listed a bit later, PEG is defiantly a no no for some rubberized adhesives.
- Brand name Johnsons & Johnsons baby shampoo (which is seemingly everyone’s go to ) has received some negative publicity recently for its ingredient quaternium-15. This preservative has been known to actually release formaldehyde!This huge conglomerate company has been desperately and very painstakingly trying to remove this ingredient and have just done so recently (although I still don’t like all the other unpronounceable chemical ingredients in this particular product) Even before their removal, customers would not have found formaldehyde or another potentially toxic preservative 1,4-dioxane listed on bottles because they aren’t technically ingredients. (BOO!) Formaldehyde, which has been identified by government scientists as a carcinogen, is released over time by preservatives like quaternium-15 and 1,4-dioxane, which have been linked to cancer in animal studies. The formaldehyde is created during a process used to make other ingredients mild…hummmmm! Important for a company that has sold billions of bottles of baby shampoo on its “No More Tears” claim! Long story short, consider an organic alternative to J&J if choosing baby shampoo.
- Tried and true formula that has been approved for use by doctors and been on the market and in use by clients for long enough to know its trust its safety.
- Some lash artists find this solution to work very well for removing mascara from clients if they arrive with out prior makeup removal.
- We know the risks and benefits of Tea Tree but this product also contains Citrus oil oils that are also known for natural antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and oil regulating ability. This ingredient also acts as a natural product preservative.
- More Natural selection of ingredients
- Johnsons and johnsons as well as some others may contain hidden coconut oils. Cocamidopropl Betaine is also an ingredient in J&J and is derived from coconut oil which is fab at taking those lashes STRAIGHT off!This ingredient has been linked to dermatitis and was voted 2004 Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society… Allergen of the year!? Who knew…Coco glucoside is found in organic baby shampoo choices as a safer alternative but is also taken right from coconut oil. *NOTE* The large majority of lash artists using baby shampoo for prep or home care do not notice problems with retention. (Link to ingredient article) J & J does make a natural baby shampoo but the first 6 ingredients (after water) are all oil derivatives. Here’s one with as little bad stuff as possible!
SteriLid manufactured lid cleanser in foam pump bottle
Ingredients
Water/Aqua, Peg-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Peg-150 Distearate, Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate, Linalool, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Piperazinoethyl Acetate Ethylsulfonate, Boric Acid, Sodium Perborate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree Oil) Leaf Oil, Trisodium Edta, Etidronic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide.
Uses:
- This product can be used as a prep step for cleaning lashes before application. This product does contain bit of Tea Tree Oil so be sure to not let this product enter the eye.
- Because of its medicinal properties this product is often suggested for clients who suffer from Blepharitis or who have an over population of lash mites.
- This product can be sold to clients for home care as well and can safely be used twice daily.
Precautions:
- If you wear contact lenses, you’ll want to take them out when using products containing tee tree.
Application:
At Home:
- Shake well before use.
- Clean fingertips with SteriLid. Rinse.
- Pump SteriLid foam on to clean fingertips.
- Close eyes, and gently massage foam into lids and lashes. Avoid touching eyes directly. NOTE* Have clients suffering from Lash Mites/Blepharitis/Rosecialeave the foam in place for 60 seconds for maximum effectiveness. DO NOT OPEN EYES.
- Rinse well with water before opening eyes.
Salon:
Pro’s:
Linalool, a key ingredient in SteriLid, is a naturally-occurring liquid distilled from plant oils with wide use in personal care products based on its pleasant floral scent. It is found in many flowers and spice plants, as well as in tea tree oil. Linalool has been formulated into SteriLid to create a “gentle-on-the-eye” eyelid cleanser that cleanses yet, with its pH-matched-to-skin formula, helps maintain the skin oils that have antibacterial properties, and provide the skin with a natural defense.
Cons:
- Some clients have reported that SteriLid can make the lids skin feel dry
- It does contain the same Cocamidopropl Betaine and PEG ingredients listed above that are not great.
- Tea Tree oil from the native Australian evergreen, Melaleuca alternifolia (sometimes called Alernifolia oil) has some controversy around its application near the eye. It is very important to let clients know to not let the product enter the eye when cleansing at home and to thoroughly rinse lashes and remove contacts prior to washing.
The following warning was taken from Livestrong.com “In most instances, eye contact with tea tree oil will not cause blindness. If tea tree oil comes in contact with your eye, you may experience redness, surface irritation and discomfort. The inflammation and discomfort may result in minor changes in vision, and your vision should return to normal as the reaction clears. If tea tree oil comes in contact with your eyes, you should thoroughly flush your eyes with water. The eye flush should continue for at least 20 minutes. The best method is to stand in the shower with the head focused on your forehead and let the water run into your open eyes. http://www.livestrong.com/article/345685-can-tea-tree-oil-cause-blindness/
- Another ingredient in steriLid, Linalool, gradually breaks down when in contact with oxygen, forming an oxidized by-product that may cause allergic reactions such as eczema in susceptible individuals. (wikipedia) To prevent oxidation do not let the product be exposed to air. The foam pump is air tight but this means not unscrewing the top.
*Another fact about linalool (taken from tea tree) is that pure linalool has anti-cancer effects! Jeesh! With all the cancer CAUSING ingredients this was refreshing!One study found that “…linalool exhibited comparable IC(50) values to the commercial drug vinblastine on the ACHN cell line” in killing liver cancer cells and also shows promise against leukemia. Among the substances tested “linalool showed the strongest activity against histiocytic lymphoma cells. (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19040575)
Chrisanthie
Ingredients:
Aqua, Sodium Lauryl, Sulphate, Propylene Glycol, Lauryl Betaine, Disodium Lauryl, Suflosuccinate, Carbomer, Triethanqlamine, Alernifolia oil, Citrus oil, Polysobate, Diazolidinyl Urea.
Uses:
- This product can be used as a prep step for cleaning lashes before application. This product does contain bit of Tea Tree Oil so be sure to not let this product enter the eye, have clients remove contact lenses prior to use.
- Because of its natural antiseptic qualities this product is also suggested for clients who suffer from Blepharitis or who have an over population of lash mites.
- This product can be sold to clients for home care as well and can safely be used daily.
Pro:
Con
Cream based application
I have a question about Chrissanthie, Is it a cream? Does it have a scent? It says on the web site acrylates protect the lash? Does it leave a residue? Do you ever prep with this or is it just for home use?
THANKS
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6/1/2020